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Post by Rushing on Aug 10, 2011 14:04:20 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi.
I have a generic rear hub that came with my Kilo. Today I was testing out a new part and I ended up hearing my rear hub crackling. There's a cap covering the bearing in the hub and is came loose. I ended up pushing it back in to protect the bearing, but now I'm wondering about getting a different rear hub. My front wheel hub is a Formula hub and it seems to do me well, but the rear is becoming annoying. What do you recommend I do?
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Post by nlinealac on Aug 10, 2011 15:35:13 GMT -8
GET NEW FORMULA REAR HUB!
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Post by rabbi on Aug 10, 2011 18:19:20 GMT -8
^that's probably the best advice. The stock hubs on kilos are just ticking time bombs.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 10, 2011 20:51:55 GMT -8
I ended up taking back my rear wheel from my friend who had some trouble with his State bike. I have to change the cog and lock ring on the Formula hub, though. Everything else is fine.
Apparently, the problem was the bearings in the hub were grinding so much it was marking up the bearings and the inside of the hub.
Note: always have your own set of wheels when getting an entirely built bike.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 11, 2011 20:01:34 GMT -8
Looking to get a Phil Wood hub now. Although, I'm thinking about building a rear wheel. Any suggestions on spokes and rims?
Basically: open options to build my bike.
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Post by rabbi on Aug 11, 2011 21:10:42 GMT -8
A formula hub will perform just as well as a phil for 1/3rd the price. Are you gonna be building both wheels or just rear? I would just match rims if you're building only a rear. If both, I suggest mavic open pros or hplusson tb14s. And use dt swiss champion or competition spokes.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 11, 2011 23:08:22 GMT -8
The Formula hub was stripped and all of the threading on the fixed side wielded or something to the cog. So I cannot use the Formula hub, unless of course I want to ride a free wheel. I was looking at a buyers catalog at the bike shop and I saw a few hubs that caught my eye, but I might as well get what I pay for and go for something that is really durable. I say that because someone had mentioned to me that Phil Wood basically only works on hubs.
For rims, I think I'll still use the Alex rims and the spokes that came with the set, as you advised. It crossed my mind to just build a new rear wheel as something for later. Soma Everwear tires are semi hard to get on the rim.
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Post by gizmo on Aug 12, 2011 1:07:26 GMT -8
Pretty much regardless of your rim, it will be hard to get an everwear on. It's good that you're looking for a quality piece of equipment but as rabbi said, formula hubs are one of the best quality:price hubs out there. Phil Wood products will outlive you. They're heavy (if you plan on going high-flange) and durable but shit they're costly. I'm sure you get what you pay for but personally I would get formula hub to H+Son/open pro and use the rest of the money on a sick frame. Or Topet's hoodie.
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Post by rabbi on Aug 12, 2011 1:09:35 GMT -8
A formula hub is gonna last just as long as a phil hub. Formula only makes hubs, too. When people strip out hubs, it's a user error. What you're paying for is the high price of labor in this country vs taiwan in a phil hub and street cred. People say phils are the smoothest rolling hubs, but it's all in the bearings and the bearings they use are only $5 each.
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Post by gizmo on Aug 12, 2011 1:17:22 GMT -8
that makes me ask what do you believe to be the best setup, value-wise, rabbi. Like, what other parts would you recommend? Cranks, pedals/straps, cockpit, etc I'm thinking the only thing worth invfesting in are wheels and frame?
in general, not racing
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Post by rabbi on Aug 12, 2011 2:24:31 GMT -8
for not racing...
wheels: formula hubs to hplusson tb14s, mavic open pros, or velocity aeroheads.
cranks: sram omnium.
chain: izumi eco or similar.
cog: eai (one that costs around $30).
lockring: shimano dura ace. end of story.
pedals/straps: pedals are subjective to the size of your foot, but for straps: toshi or mks alpha-a. this is probably the only thing that i would consider a splurge. crappy leather doubles cost 1/3rd of the price, but stretch out in a month. best bet is to go clipless with a set of mountain shoes and shimano/time pedals.
cockpit: bars and stems are subjective to what you want/need out of a bar and what you need for your body. i know everyone loves their sweetfixie track drops and riding brakeless, but let's face it, you don't use the drops and you cannot stop your bike in an emergency situation, no matter how good of a rider you think you are. on that note, road bars with road brake levers and at least a front brake. it all really depends on your use of the bike, though. some people like drops, others risers and some bullhorns.
seatpost: something with 2 bolts so that you can micro-adjust the angle. thomsons are really nice, but there are cheaper options out there.
saddle: it's all on what your butt likes. if your butt likes a $200 saddle, buy a $200 saddle. having a saddle that doesn't agree with you is going to give you the worst experience while you're on your bike.
i think that's it when it comes to fixed gears.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 12, 2011 2:58:43 GMT -8
The more I think about I should find something that is less pricey, so I can work on getting a crank set and decide on the pedal situation. Although, I think it'd be nice to have a set of custom wheels; I'll wait on those. Getting the Everwear on the generic rim was very simple, but the Alex rim was much more thin. Rabbi is right about the bearings. I just don't want anything that has loose bearings. I would like to do a race or something and win a frame and not spend $200.00 on a skull hoodie. Hoodie<crank set.
As soon as I get the hub I may actually have Rabbi show me how to do everything.
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Post by nikki on Aug 12, 2011 9:12:20 GMT -8
dear rabbi why do avocados RULE!!!!  -nikki |
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Post by rabbi on Aug 12, 2011 13:07:33 GMT -8
Coz delish.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 15, 2011 23:23:29 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi.
Is a set of Miche Primato hubs worth $100.00?
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Post by nlinealac on Aug 16, 2011 2:08:45 GMT -8
Dear Rushing,
JUST BUY SOME FORMULAS BRO!
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Post by nikki on Aug 16, 2011 8:19:52 GMT -8
isn't answering his question bro
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Post by rabbi on Aug 16, 2011 9:07:05 GMT -8
he pm'd me and i responded. question answered.
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Post by Rushing on Aug 16, 2011 9:07:31 GMT -8
It really doesn't. I ask because the set is brand new and it will be in a certain shop now than the Formula hub. I have only seen them online so I'd have to order and wait for it.
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Post by rabbi on Aug 16, 2011 9:12:14 GMT -8
check your pms...
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Post by nlinealac on Aug 16, 2011 14:07:50 GMT -8
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Post by Rushing on Sept 8, 2011 7:20:19 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi
What bar tape/wrap do you recommend having?
As of now I have Newbaum's and personally, I dislike the stuff a great deal.
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Post by rabbi on Sept 8, 2011 7:48:20 GMT -8
i use lizzard skins.
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Post by Rushing on Sept 8, 2011 10:46:28 GMT -8
I'm not big on animal products, lqtm. (Joke)
Thank you.
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Post by nlinealac on Sept 8, 2011 11:50:29 GMT -8
I used the skin of a vigin yak. Works great in the rain yo!
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Post by craig on Sept 8, 2011 15:29:51 GMT -8
whatever you do rushing, don't get the low end crap. yeah, it may be 9 bucks but it's just a waste of money. your three contact points are important, treat them to a little bit of quality. I say fizik or lizard skins.
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Post by Rushing on Sept 11, 2011 21:52:50 GMT -8
I have felt Fizik wraps on another person's handlebars and it seems comfortable, but thin.
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Post by rabbi on Sept 11, 2011 22:39:24 GMT -8
yes, fizik is thin.
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Post by nlinealac on Sept 12, 2011 0:55:09 GMT -8
HTFU
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Post by austin on Sept 12, 2011 5:57:50 GMT -8
I RIDE BARE BARS AND USE A SOLID STEEL SADDLE CAUSE IM HARD AS FUUUUUCK. and are you ready for some gnarly bike demoing today?
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