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Post by rabbi on Oct 11, 2011 13:46:47 GMT -8
Yeah. It can get expensive buying chainrings, though. I would try out different cogs.
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Post by Rushing on Oct 11, 2011 13:48:08 GMT -8
I meant to do that. The amount of teeth on my chain ring is fine, but I thought about trying different cogs. Seems easier to adjust and swap.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2011 10:15:55 GMT -8
thanks for the input, roadies. and austin, my parents actually ordered me a rapha winter jersey for my bday, BAHAHAHA. however, after seeing the prices on rapha stuff, this leads me to my next question: are there other brands out there that are significantly cheaper that will still get "the job" done? i have a similar question. last winter i commuted wearing a regular jacket(non cycling specific) and overheated. is there any cycling jackets under 100$ that are good for staying warm in winter, but not overheating? or is that unnecessary for the climate here? would a base layer + jersey + arm warmers, be enough? also, leg warmers vs knee warmers? necessary? i have been running for about 5 years and i have worn shorts even in the winter without any issues, but i am not sure if the same can be done with long rides in the winter. |
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Post by austin on Oct 12, 2011 11:57:00 GMT -8
you will definitely want knee warmers or leg warmers. knee warmers are fine. wind chill is much worse on a bike than running. and depending on what time of day you ride a nice base layer , jersey, arm warmers, vest combination will be fine mot days. and make sure you have warm gloves too.
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Post by nlinealac on Oct 12, 2011 17:24:13 GMT -8
Gloves are very important.
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Post by austin on Oct 21, 2011 0:50:43 GMT -8
dear rabbs and others, i want a track racing bike to replace my flite. i was thinking about an electron, but i was wondering about any other frames in the same price range that are meant for racing?
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Post by rabbi on Oct 21, 2011 7:48:43 GMT -8
I really dig the electron. I also have always lusted after a merckx pista. The ridley and stevens are pretty nice, too.
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Post by Rushing on Oct 21, 2011 9:41:19 GMT -8
GT Pulse.
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Post by rabbi on Oct 21, 2011 12:38:56 GMT -8
Ehh, not worth the time to track one down in your size and then hoping it's in good condition. People usually want your first born child for a decent one.
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Post by Rushing on Oct 23, 2011 12:07:21 GMT -8
I really like that GT Pulse that I posted in the porn thread.
I could have sworn that I saw it somewhere and that is was being sold.
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Post by rabbi on Oct 23, 2011 12:23:26 GMT -8
only in aus/nz.
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Post by Rushing on Oct 25, 2011 16:06:24 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi
What track bike would you buy for racing?
What is your opinion on Specialized Langsters?
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Post by nlinealac on Oct 25, 2011 17:04:56 GMT -8
I would go with somthing along the lines of this.  But then again I'm just a flashy nigga. Also this is a good use for a langster.  |
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Post by craig on Oct 25, 2011 17:16:20 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi What track bike would you buy for racing? What is your opinion on Specialized Langsters? Hahaha, langsters. for racing. |
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Post by Rushing on Oct 25, 2011 17:31:52 GMT -8
Also, what exactly is toe-overlap?
Am I correct thinking that it is a factor that involves your toes meeting the front wheel?
If so, I don't have toe-overlap and I am glad.
I'm not sure how, either.
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Post by nlinealac on Oct 25, 2011 18:33:15 GMT -8
Toe overlap is when your toes reach past the back of your front wheel. This is normal on bikes with track geo. If you buy a track racing bike you will have over lap which is ok cause your only racing it on a velodrome.... in theory. This  Not this  |
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Post by rabbi on Oct 25, 2011 18:52:47 GMT -8
Yeah, that's toe overlap. It's really only a factor during really slow turns with your wheel turned hard to the side.
The langster is more of a street/road geometry fixed gear than a road bike. But specialized does make a s-works langster than is meant for the track.
If I had to go out and buy a complete track racing bike, it would be a giant omnium, felt tk2, s-works langster, or a fuji comp.
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Post by rabbi on Oct 25, 2011 18:53:25 GMT -8
Yeah, that's toe overlap. It's really only a factor during really slow turns with your wheel turned hard to the side.
The langster is more of a street/road geometry fixed gear than a road bike. But specialized does make a s-works langster than is meant for the track.
If I had to go out and buy a complete track racing bike, it would be a giant omnium, felt tk2, s-works langster, or a fuji comp.
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Post by austin on Oct 25, 2011 19:09:01 GMT -8
the giants top tube is gross
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Post by Rushing on Nov 1, 2011 16:04:19 GMT -8
Dear, Rabbi
Why do you dislike Leader bikes?
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Post by brianburke on Nov 1, 2011 18:17:45 GMT -8
I feel that I need to relieve you of this question, Nathan.
Google "Cracked/Broken Leader frames"
Aluminum frames are not something that should be built up cheap and sold cheaper. It takes quality tubing and good welds to use a material that is significantly less strong than steel. Leader frames ride like shit too.
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Post by craig on Nov 1, 2011 18:40:22 GMT -8
Hahahahaha JNCO jean fork too!   ^ This isn't even a problem with a bad weld either. It just proves the aluminum they use is inferior. |
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Post by craig on Nov 1, 2011 18:46:42 GMT -8
I can't imagine a leader downhill frame. lulz
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Post by Rushing on Nov 1, 2011 21:11:28 GMT -8
I see what you mean.
I keep seeing these Leaders and they all look the same and I wonder what the appeal is.
This also goes for Chubs. Fat rear hub? The point of it is... ?
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Post by rabbi on Nov 2, 2011 8:27:40 GMT -8
I know track racers that use chub hubs (at least rear) exclusively. Because the diameter of the flange/hub is so large, you can create an ultra stiff wheel with the necessary short spokes when paired with a deep crabon rim.
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Post by Rushing on Nov 2, 2011 13:35:47 GMT -8
Okay. I remember seeing someone switch out their rear wheel with one that had a Chub. They seem very heavy.
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Post by remspeedwagon on Nov 3, 2011 6:46:46 GMT -8
Actually quite light, good hub
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Post by Rushing on Nov 3, 2011 7:10:53 GMT -8
REM, I PM'd you about your stem and as to what type of shim you use.
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Post by fixedlove on Nov 3, 2011 9:14:33 GMT -8
Dear rabbi,
Found a fairly cheap cabron fork online and was a bit weary of the manufacturer. It's a company named Kinesis, after going their site I find out they're from Taiwan. What's your opinion on Kinesis, or should I just save up a bit more monies for a Ritchey fork which I had originally intended to purchase in the first place?
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Post by nlinealac on Nov 3, 2011 11:21:14 GMT -8
Kenisis forks are fine.
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